Thursday 7 July 2016

Around the Orkneys - 21st to 23rd June 2016

Whitehills to Wck - 20th June 2016

After so long stuck in Whiltehills I was beginning to think I would never leave, but on the morning of the 20th June, the forecast was at last reasonable and from the vantage point of the harbour breakwater I could see the sea was a lot flatter than it had been over the past week.  Time to move.

Ahead of me lay nearly 50 miles of open sea. I would be crossing the vast majority of the Moray Firth in one go.  There were no ports of refuge along the route.

The mountains at still visible behind me even though I am nearly 40 miles from Whitehills and probably 60 miles from the mountains.  Shows how massive they are!
On route I pass latitude 58 degrees north.

As you approach Wick from the sea it really does feel as though you are at the top of the country as the land beyond Wick slopes away to nothing as you look north.

The Whitehills web cam showing the harbour during the storm

Not quite calm enough to leave yet.
 
 
My route and track across the Moray Firth, no place to hide 
Sailing at last, leaving Whitehills behind
The mountains still visible 40 miles away
The entrance to Wick harbour, challenging in a south easterly but calm today!
Safely moored in Wick
I really am quite far north
The dockside in Wick looks rundown but there are some nice views along the river
 
 
 

Thursday 16 June 2016

Peterhead to Whitehills - 12th June 2016

A grey start to the day as I called Peterhead port control for permission to exit. I passed Ratray Head the most easterly point of mainland Scotland and the southern most point in the inshore shipping area I am now entering.
Leaving Peterhead
Looking out to sea, more rain!
But no wind
Ratray Head light house
The southern coast the Moray Firth 
The southern coast of Moray Firth
Approaching Whitehills

Today was very odd as I steered due west in the the Moray Firth. I didn't fancy the 75 mile motor to Wick so instead opted to go to Whitehills just 38 miles. Butt his means it's only 48 miles to Wick. On the way the sun actually came out s d I saw a dolphin. I have to say I'm very glad I decided to come to this little port as it is delightful and the harbour master Bertie has been really helpful and all for £20.
Entrance to Whitehills
Poldeaux entering Whitehills, photo by the Harbour master, Bertie



 
Poldeaux moored in the outer harbour  

My stay has been longer than expected with the weather changing for the worse.  Since Tuesday its been force 5, 6 and 7.  Its given me plenty of opportunity to explore the area and the two public houses in the village. Its also allowed me to replace the AIS antenna.  Bertie very kindly drove me to McDuff to the chandlers and would not accept any payment for petrol or his time.  Now that is service!

 
 

Arbroath to Peterhead - 11th June 2016

A very long, wet and grey day but achieved another 67 miles today (that's a channel crossing for many southern yachties) from Arbroath to Peterhead, 12 hours.


I was up early as usual and left immediately I had obtained my £10 deposit back on the gate key and the half tide lock gates were opened at 0700. It rained heavily for much of the night so wasn't looking forward to today's journey. Luckily we got away with light drizzle most of the day but everything still gets wet.

I passed Montrose, Stonehaven and Aberdeen where there was lots of commercial traffic. Passed what looked like an impressive castle in the mist and gloom and finally rounded the headland and Peterhead came into sight.  A very busy commercial harbour. Three north sea supply vessels left while I was entering and two vessels heading north past by to seaward. 

Moor rain!
Off Aberdeen, lots of North Sea Oil traffic
 
 
The Navigator at his desk
Laptop with SeaPro software
Engine controls and electrical switches
 
The power station south of Peterhead
Captain taking a look at Peterhead
 
Entering Peterhead
Peterhead marina
Another beach for Captain in Peterhead
 
 
 I'm starting to keep a close eye on the weather for getting to the Orkneys. Only Whitehills and Wick to go before the big one, the Pentland Firth! Currently the weather looks very unstable and the forecasts do not reflect the actual weather so it will be interesting to see the 5am forecast tomorrow to see if I will be going anywhere.

Wednesday 15 June 2016

Eyemouth to Arbroath - 9th June 2016

Good evening. Today we have sailed, I use the term loosely from Eyemouth to Arbroath and a lovely spot it seems to be too.

Leaving Eyemouth was an eye opener, it was flat calm but the swell was casing breaking waves at the entrance.  Wouldn't like to exit or enter on a rough day.


Even on a flat calm day you can see waves breaking on the rocks and the swell. I left at 0700 after walking Captain to a very large swell which did not bode well for ...my destination. The almanac warns not to enter Arbroath in anything more than a modest swell from the south east. And guess what the winds were due to move round to the south east! I tried calling the Harbour Master but there was no reply.

We are now in the sea area of the Aberdeen coast guard which covers the sea area to Cape Wrath and the Orkneys. I crossed my first firth today despite it being called the the forth, firth of forth. Passed St Abbs head and out into the wilderness out of sight of any land, on past Edinburgh, St Andrews, the River Tay and Dundee and its cake. I was looking at the world map and I'm now at the same latitude as Moscow, no wonder it's cold. I saw one other yacht today, heading south, busy! The work of the round UK sailer is not all sight seeing. After arriving at 1515 I took captain for a walk on another new beach and then decided I should do an engine service, oil changed, oil filter changed, anode replaced, secondary fuel filter replaced. So tomorrow my plan is to relax. As you probably know

St Abbs Head Light house
Captain relaxing

Captain looking at the Bell Rock light house
Detour to take a look at Bell Rock Light House
Bell Rock on the chart, that's close enough
 
As I have been on the move every day since leaving Hartlepool I feel I owe myself a little break so tomorrow we will explore Arbroath.

Arbroath is the birthplace of the Smokie so I have just been to buy breakfast.

Entering Arbroath
Safely moored in Arbroath

The Signal Museum - The museum holds an interesting history of the light house which is the oldest sea washed light house in the world.  It was built by Stevenson.
Smokies being smoked and sold
 
All you need to know about Arbroath
Evening meal at the Old Brewhouse

Amble to Eyemouth - 8th June 2016

A day for reflection. I set off on the 9th May so I have been sailing a month now and today saw to boundaries crossed, I passed the 500 mile mark and crossed the boarder into Scotland. That's an average of 15 miles a day but if you take out the week stuck in Scarborough and a few days relaxing on the River Orwell that's about 20 miles a day. 

When I got up it was think fog however by the time I set off from Amble at 0800 it was clearing. It's not like sailing in the Solent... today was busy I saw two yachts. One was a Dutch guy I met in Grimsby in a boat called Benito. I tried calling him on the VHF but no reply. 

By 0915 I was off Dunstanburgh Castle and by 1100 I was inside the Farne Islands looking at the thousands of birds and day cold looking trippers paying to be taken out to the islands. The islands are a great sight with Bamburgh Castle on the mainland opposite. 

The Farne Islands
Captain cant believe how many birds there are to chase!
Inner Farne, close up
 
 
At noon I stopped for lunch off Lindisfarne. If it had been warm and sunny I would have been tempted to anchor overnight. It was a poignant time looking at Lindisfarne and the castle. I took my mum their on one of our last holidays together. A few thoughtful moments and good memories.  I have also had a connection with Lindisfarne since I was a teenager, it is the name of my father and step mothers house.   

Lindisfarne castle on rather a grey day
Anchored off a two mile long sandy beach

At 1430 I was off Berwick upon Tweed the last English town I will see for a while. At about 1530 I crossed into Scottish waters and arrived in Eyemouth at 1700 Eyemouth has a very narrow and rock strewn entrance. Fine on a calm day!

Eyemouth has an interesting entrance with rocks either side, just 17m wide!
The harbour entrance
Safely moored in Eyemouth
Looking out to sea on a calm day
The view looking north towards St Abbs Head